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Golden
Eagles, though not common, occur in the region
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Along the crest
of the long sandstone spine of Galiano
Island, the Bodega Ridge Trail loops through a rare coastal
habitat of Douglas fir, hairy manzanita, and Garry oak. Following
the 328-m ridge, the first half of the trail encompasses a panorama
that includes the Trincomali Channel, the hilly profile of Saltspring
Island, and the shadowy outline of the mountains of Vancouver
Island. In contrast, the second half of the trail loops beneath
the shade of tall Douglas firs, along paths and old logging roads
heavily overgrown with hip-high salal, nettles, and brambles. Saved
by the determination of the island's permanent residents, the trail
and the 150 ha Bodega Ridge Nature Preserve - with its nesting
bald eagles and peregrine
falcons, and a separate 8-km section along the shore - could
have been lost in perpetuity.
However, in July 1995, the federal and provincial governments, together
with The Nature Conservancy of Canada, purchased the land, and with
the help of the newly established Pacific Marine Heritage Legacy
agreement, the preserve has been saved.
The well-used trail starts at the faded Bodega Ridge Nature Trail
sign at the end of Cottage Way. Cottage Way is off Porlier Pass
Rd, almost 19 kms north of the Sturdies Bay ferry terminal. Turkey
vultures call Galiano Island's Bodega Ridge home. There's a
good chance that if you walk up on the ridge you'll see them circling
on the updrafts. Others sit hunched at the top of skeletal Douglas
fir trees and look down with beady eyes. Even if you've never seen
a turkey vulture at close quarters, you'll instantly recognize its
bald, red head, which definitely does look like a turkey.
The Bodega Ridge pathway has its own 'self-appointed hostess,' or
so the sign outside her house says. Meghamm is an old Irish setter
that lives in a house on Cottage Way at the foot of the trail. She
likes to accompany hikers going onto the ridge and is often found
bounding around beneath the arbutus tress and Douglas firs. Five
minutes of gentle, uphill walking through salal growing under a
canopy of Douglas firs brings you to a clearing at Scotch broom.
At the far end of the clearing, a sign cautions, 'Proceed at your
own risk. Steep-rugged terrain.' Just past the sign, the trail divides.
Bear left here. Father along the trail, past another sign warning
of the impending dangerous terrain, the ridge drops away dramatically,
revealing a magnificent view across the islands, mountains, and
water. Far below, Wallace Island sits
squat in the middle of Trincomali Channel. The Secretaries, Mogli,
Norway, Hall, and Reid Islands lie like Islands. Father northwest,
beyond Kuper Island and
Thetis Island, lurk the
shadowy outlines of the mountains of Vancouver Island. Spreading
in a soothing collage the blues, greys, and greens, the unfolding
scenery is balm to citified eyes.
Heading north along the edge of the ridge between the arbutus trees
and clumps of hair manzanita - this shrub grows more profusely on
Bodega Ridge than anywhere else in the Gulf Islands - you'll reach
a large slab of sand right on the ridge edge. Less than 3.22 kms
from the trailhead, you may well have spotted a turkey vulture or
two by now. At a distance it's easy to confuse immature bald eagles
with turkey vultures. Both birds soar in a similar way, and even
with binoculars it is difficult to make out the red heads of the
vultures. (In the US, Cherokee Indians call turkey vultures 'peace
eagles' because of their similarity to eagles, but soften the name
because, unlike eagles, vultures don't kill prey.)
There's a good chance of spotting killer
whales from East Point Park on
Saturna Island and Gowlland
Point Park on South Pender
Island, particularly from May to October.
Common
Loon and chicks
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Upswelling currents
bring cold, nutrient-rich water to the surface around narrow passages
between islands, such as in Active Pass, which divides Galiano and
Mayne, and Porlier Pass, between Galiano and Valdes.
In April and early May, thousands of Bonaparte's gulls, decked
out in their black-headed breeding plumage, gather to feed on the
tiny shrimp or krill that float on the surface of Active Pass.
Herring runs at this time of year attract California
sea lions and bald eagles as
well as hundreds of jet-black Pacific loons, common loons
and Brandt's cormorants. One of the best places to observe
all this action is from the deck of a BC Ferries vessel as it reduces
speed when moving through Active Pass.
Newcastle Island Provincial Park, in
Nanaimo harbour, is renowned as a bird-watcher's paradise. Thousands
of shorebirds throng its coastline year-round, including such
hard workers as the red-billed black oystercatcher. For the
best viewing, follow the Shoreline Trail from the ferry wharf counterclockwise
around the island to Brownie and Kanaka Bays. |
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